December 14, 2023 | OPINION | By Sam Treat
At this point in my historic and illustrious career, there is little I’ve yet to review. From fine dining in Spain to strip malls in Colorado Springs, I’ve covered it all. However, a glaring omission to my catalog of eateries recently came to my attention: a food truck. Thankfully, my dear friend Max Hinds ’23 has put me on to one of the best spots The Springs has to offer.
Po’ Brothers, situated, as all things Colorado Springs are, between an auto parts store and a headshop, is truly a culinary revolution. Striving to deliver Cajun and Creole inspired dishes, the food truck’s smell will penetrate nostrils from the moment you step into the parking lot. The truck is permanently located off E. Platte Avenue and boasts outdoor seating at refined stained wood tables. Fortunately, with winter well-approaching, they offer both delivery and pickup options; however, hours of operation remain limited from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Given the limited hours, I figured lunch would be the best bet. Upon arrival, I was greeted by an incredibly friendly construction worker offering tips on his favorite meals from the truck. In fact, it seemed that the majority of the clientele were blue collar workers on their lunch break. I find there to be a direct correlation between food quality and the number of construction or garbage workers at a restaurant. Those hard working men and women know how to eat.
The menu is simple and contains Southern staples – gumbo, jambalaya, catfish, etc. – as well as some off-the-beaten path items, like gator and Étouffée. The po’boy selection is robust and the tagline under each item is “sometimes too big.” Having never heard that before in any context, I was excited to see what a “too big” menu item might mean.
I ordered the three-item sampler fried basket, in which I opted to include shrimp, catfish and hand-breaded alligator tail. The basket also came with the Po’ Brothers signature Cajun Fries, which, I have to say, were some of the best fries I’ve ever had in my life. Included with the fries were tangy barbeque and homemade remoulade sauces, both of which were just scrumptious.
The shrimp was the highlight of the basket – massive fried pieces that were perfectly breaded. For those who like catfish, which I consider a muddier tasting whitefish, it was delicious and flavorful. Finally, the gator was a new item for my palate. Not expecting much, I was pleasantly surprised by the flavor; in truth, it tasted just like an earthier chicken.
The Shrimp Po’Boy, like the basket, was a massive portion size. The bread was fluffy and light, cradling the shrimp, lettuce, sauce and banana peppers delicately and deliciously. I dug in with gusto, enjoying the Cajun breading that covered the deep-fried shrimp. The side of Mac ‘N Cheese I ordered was the perfect accompaniment. The mac was cheesy without being fake, and it was full-flavored thanks to the myriad of Cajun spices included in the cheesy sauce. The flavors and spices in every dish truly are a stark contrast to the doldrums of typical Colorado Springs cuisine.
The story behind Po’ Brothers is as unique as the food. Chef Tom, the only person I’ve ever seen working the truck, is a former Army cook who then went on to graduate from one of the top culinary programs in the United States. His love for the food he makes is clear, and he always seems delighted to talk about it. With a commitment to fresh ingredients and honoring international flavors, Chef Tom has delivered a product to be proud of.
It is a rarity for me to be thoroughly impressed with a restaurant the way that I was with Po’ Brothers. I encourage all my readers to visit this impressive local establishment. If you want to add some spice and seasoning to your life, then this is the place to do it.
Postscript: After writing, it came to my attention that Po’ Brothers was removed from DoorDash. Chef Tom and his family rely on their small business to make ends meet so now would be a great time to support!