OCT 24, 2024 | FEATURES | By Grace Gassel
Grace’s Gemstones – Notes on Fashion Abroad
Hi everyone. My name is Grace. I am a current junior studying political science and journalism. And, boy, do I have a passion for fashion! I am abroad in Copenhagen this fall. This column will explore what “Copenhageners” are wearing, Danish brands, sustainability initiatives, style analysis and other fashion items on my mind. It will be a once-Blockly column throughout the remainder of this semester. I hope you enjoy and find some inspiration to disrupt the gorp-core epidemic on our home campus.
Denmark is renowned for its prowess in design, including urban planning and infrastructure, furniture craftsmanship (especially chairs), and of course, fashion. In Europe, individuals tend to dress up more for everyday life. Europe is not only fashion-formal and forward, it is also a leader in sustainability initiatives, especially in Denmark. Copenhageners are incentivized to recycle, take the world-class public transport systems or bike as substitute and use wind and solar energy to power much of its infrastructure. Sustainability also stretches into the fashion space. Many prominent Danish brands are sustainable, such as Ganni. Secondhand and vintage fashion is also a large piece of the Danish fashion space.
Danish society is homogenous. A large part of the reason the Danes are so successful in their sustainability initiatives, all dress up and pay such high taxes for universal healthcare, welfare and unemployment benefits, is in part thanks to the Law of Jante. The Law of Jante is not enforced by any national, state, or local government but is present in all Scandinavian societies. It is a social contract in the form of 10 rules:
Rule 1 – Do not think you are anything special
Rule 2 – Do not think you are as good as we are
Rule 3 – Do not think you are smarter than we are
Rule 4 – Do not imagine yourself better than we are
Rule 5 – Do not think you know more than we do
Rule 6 – Do not think you are more important than we are
Rule 7 – Do not think you are good at anything
Rule 8 – Do not laugh at us
Rule 9 – Do not think anyone cares about you
Rule 10 – Do not think you can teach us anything
The rules are pointed towards you, the individual. The we/us refers to society. These social rules in combination with the long-time engrained social expectation of trust, and a population of individuals who all look very similar, result in a society that is largely less receptive to newcomers, change and differences. This phenomenon extends to all ways of life and aspects of society, notably in the fashion space.
The average Dane is tall, thin, blonde and absolutely stunning. Upon observations, I have noticed that the average young (14-30 years old) trendy Dane has a few staple pieces and uniform outfit combinations. The current season of fashion is summer to fall transition-wear from late August through early October.
Male presenting individuals wear baggy/wide-leg pants (jeans, slacks, workwear, etc) and baggy/oversized shirts (button-ups, t-shirts). They polish the look with a gorgeous leather shoe (Birkenstocks — more summertime wear — a loafer, lace-up dress shoes, doc-martens, timberlands, etc.) and an ankle or knee-length overcoat (typically khaki or wool). It is not often I see a man wearing a beat-up pair of Air Force 1s. They do, however, sport New Balances (Models: 1906, 574, 530, M2002RDN, 608), and of course, the epidemic of the Adidas Samba, Gazelle and Campus ‘00s sneakers continues. The low-profile sneaker is in right now. The male-accessory game is top-tier: headphones, ballcaps (the LA Dodgers or NY Mets teams are frequently represented for some reason) and chunky black sunglasses.
The men look so put together. It is a refreshing reminder that not all men wear athleisure or the chick-repellant khaki-polo combo all the time. Enough is enough, American (straight) men! I’m begging you! Please just find a pair of Doc Martens, well-fitting slacks, and a cute button-up! You won’t look gay, you will just look put-together!
Female presenting individuals tend to wear baggy pants with minimal rips, tiny shirts and big button-ups (or combine both), paired with a leather shoe (loafers, boots, Doc Martens, etc.), a dad sneaker, typically the New Balance 530 or 1906, or (this is more summer) brightly-colored Havaianas flip flops. As for accessories, the women wear big headphones, subtle and simple jewelry pieces, slim 90s-shape-oval glasses (most often with tortoiseshell frames) and big slouchy leather or canvas tote bags/purses. The fall coat game of Danish women is incredible — they were fitted in leather jackets and large ankle-length overcoats of woolen and khaki materials. The Danish rainy season is now in full swing, and they sport big, long raincoats in primary colors.
The color palette of Danes can be separated into three large categories.
Category 1 – Muted
- Neutrals (beiges, khakis, navy/toned blues, white, black) + all shades in between
- Earth tones
Category 2 – Bold
- Primary colors —> red, yellow, blue (bright/bold/rich shades of all of these colors)
- Bright shades of other colors, typically classically feminine colors
- Full pieces and small accents
Category 3 – Wild Cards
- Patterns —> stripes (stripes are huge in Scandinavia), florals,
- Textures —> fur (vintage + faux)
Lastly, there are some common materials and fabrics worn by the Danes.
- Quilted materials —> most commonly seen on coats (both long and waist cut but most commonly waist cut — I saw a long quilted coat the other day and freaked)
- Wool —> recycled, merino, Scottish, vintage, Danish/local, naturally dyed
- Naturally dyed cotton
- Denim → The “Canadian Tuxedo”
Copenhageners seem to have a range of what is and is not acceptable. Experimentation and loud self-expression are generally common as long as they fall within the range of the Wild Card category.
As an American standing at a stocky 5’7” with brown curly hair, I do not exactly blend right in. But I am okay with that. It is fun to be a witness to Danish fashion and cultural phenomena, as well as those in greater Europe, when I travel. I can admire the uniformity and the Law of Jante for the collective achievements and societal benefits it has, while still recognizing its pitfalls.
To end this piece, I want to list some fall fashion items I have been thinking about.
- 70s glam rock platform boots (with wooden heels) —> Think ABBA, David Bowie, night-fever, etc.
- Flowy butterfly-esque dress (sheer, shimmery material) —> Picture Stevie Nicks with her arms in the air and fabric blowing in the wind
- Micro shorts (paired with a matching suit jacket, very Chanel-esque)
- Cole Haan + Gucci leather loafers (in my dreams, I’ve been scouring eBay for a pair less than $100) —> I NEED A SOLID PAIR OF LOAFERS ASAP
- Big chunky bangles – wooden, glass gemstones, abalone shell, plastic
- Elsa Perreti jewelry – the Elsa Peretti bone cuff in silver, the snake necklace, the red/green stone pendants
- Houndstooth pattern on wool coats and blazers
My pictures:
